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 Posted June 7th, 2010 12:19 AM   IP
Mr.bb
Moderator - River Oaks Motor Speedway
Posts: 1422
Registered: Dec 2008


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 Posted June 7th, 2010 12:28 AM   IP
Dave G 5150
Moderator - Pampa VFW Slot Car Speedway
Posts: 348
Registered: Apr 2010


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nevermind... i pulled my head outta my rear and thought to look on Dallas' website and **poof** ... most of my questions were answered... LOL

now... that "box stock 12" class sounds kinda inviting... hmmmm... what's a fella gotta have to run that class???

...Dave

ps... mr bb... i think you posted that reply while i was typing mine... HAHAHA...

and i still need to send you my 27 motor for a good refresh... promise i will soon...

David Grant

I am a bomb technician; if you see me running, please try to keep up!

ATOMIK PUNK race cars (built by David Grant)

 Posted June 7th, 2010 12:16 PM   IP
ddub
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hey dave,

a good ready to run car is about $200.00 built by some of the best, like tony at dallas slot cars or walter at slot cars of katy.

at the tsra race in katy, bruce fox bought a ready to run out of the counter and won the race with it. did not change motors or anything.

we welcome you to come watch and/or race with us.

dw

doesn't anybody wanna play for blood....

www.ddubracing.com

 Posted June 17th, 2010 09:05 PM   IP
Mr.bb
Moderator - River Oaks Motor Speedway
Posts: 1422
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pawatson wrote:
Tip #59-This is the time of year when many folks are talking about the upcoming USRA National Championship Race at Dallas Slot Cars but not really doing anything about it.I've been in that boat many times due to a lack of funds or the depression caused by that problem.If you depend on others for work,now is the time to commit & order whatever it may be you want.It won't 'turn into a pumpkin at midnight' if you don't use it.I'm cutting off ALL BODY ORDERS on JULY 1st.ALL TIRE ORDERS won't be guaranteed after that also.Now you may say,I do my own bodies or I don't race your bodies anyway.That's fine but I urge you to Make Them Now!Order Them Now if you're depending on someone else to do them.
The same thing goes for Set-Ups,Set-Up Repairs,Arm Rebalances,Cobalt Magnet Zaps,Tires, & Whatever else you need to do or get someone else to do for you.You can try other stuff right up to THE RACE itself but get the stuff YOU KNOW WORKS READY NOW!Although you may say at race time "Well,I did all I could." or the ever popular "It is what it is".If you aren't READY TO RACE when the time comes,everyone -including you-will know it wasn't true.Believe it or not when you've try Multiples-not just motors-the chances are that one will work better than another of whatever it is...identical body,same body set-up differently,body style,chassis,tires,etc.This doesn't mean that at the Nats you may find something better than what you already have.Just don't wait for this to happen-it usually doesn't.In Slot Racing, "It is what it is" ISN"T what it Could Have Been.Your results will be better served if you realise that it's "What you make it to be".
The people-including me -that make stuff for a living many times race also & are VERY CONCERNED about getting their own stuff ready & just as you may do when rushed,don't do their best work.IT is true that if you REALLY CARED THAT MUCH,you would have sent it or ordered it sooner.Wouldn't you?However you may rationalise it,it's not their problem.They're doing it for money & if you don't plan ahead you'll get what you get.I urge you to act now while there's still time.
(Edited by pawatson)



If anybody needs me do something for them for the Nats, you need to get it to me soon.

The Snake Charmer!

 Posted June 29th, 2010 05:06 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
Registered: Jun 2008


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Tip#60-We raced in Tulsa last weekend & my controller conked out.I ran my back-up a heat but it was an external resistor controller set at about .9 ohms.This was too touchy for me/my car & I borrowed a couple of others.They were way too mushy for my taste in Opens.To me,you need a range of trigger movement that is lacking if you make it so mushy that the car doesn't really move until you go about halfway on the trigger.This you may say makes your car 'POP" on take-off if you make it 'touchier'.My response is that you need to add more weight,get the guide right,add guide spacers,work on getting the braid flatter,take out any guide wobble,or simply race another chassis.Everyone has personal preferences BUT!Look at who's winning & check out their controller.I really think that many guys are simply mushing out the controller so much that they are limiting the trigger response to the degree that it makes it hard to get a car set-up really well.

 Posted June 29th, 2010 09:27 PM   IP
Dave G 5150
Moderator - Pampa VFW Slot Car Speedway
Posts: 348
Registered: Apr 2010


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pawatson wrote:
Tip#60-We raced in Tulsa last weekend & my controller conked out.I ran my back-up a heat but it was an external resistor controller set at about .9 ohms.This was too touchy for me/my car & I borrowed a couple of others.They were way too mushy for my taste in Opens.To me,you need a range of trigger movement that is lacking if you make it so mushy that the car doesn't really move until you go about halfway on the trigger.This you may say makes your car 'POP" on take-off if you make it 'touchier'.My response is that you need to add more weight,get the guide right,add guide spacers,work on getting the braid flatter,take out any guide wobble,or simply race another chassis.Everyone has personal preferences BUT!Look at who's winning & check out their controller.I really think that many guys are simply mushing out the controller so much that they are limiting the trigger response to the degree that it makes it hard to get a car set-up really well.



there's a range of motion?!?!?
heck, i just tend to drive mine like an on-off switch...

actually, that's a great tip, i don't think i've ever felt 2 controllers exactly alike...

which also makes me think... what type of controller should i have if i run spec 15 at the nats??? i just thought of that... all i have are parma turbos... hhmmmmm...

...Dave

David Grant

I am a bomb technician; if you see me running, please try to keep up!

ATOMIK PUNK race cars (built by David Grant)

 Posted June 29th, 2010 09:58 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
Registered: Jun 2008


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Get a DiFalco...any DiFalco.

 Posted August 9th, 2010 07:09 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
Registered: Jun 2008


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Tip#61-I ran one of the new Koford/J.K.'low friction' guides at the Nats.Shelby tried to warn me & I told him after the race that next time..hit me over the head 'till he gets my attention! Although I really like it for slower cars,it was completely worn through after the race-goodbye handling!Thus just say no to this softer guide that wears out for faster cars.The other thing is that I had a hard time keeping my spur gear tight.Is was one of the Koford RED DOT 39's & after the race when I was chunking it & another one that had busted teeth,I noticed that it comes w/ a short Hollow Set Screw.My advice:get rid of the 5/64ths screw & replace it w/ a 7/64ths(long screw).Beuf told me the new 'gold' screws that Koford is selling now are really good & tight.I'm going to get some & try them for Tulsa.I use the short hollow screw for my OPEN QUAL.Tires only to save weight.The longer screw should be the best one for the Koford Magnesium Hub Spur.

 Posted September 4th, 2010 11:46 AM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip#62-When painting a body,try not to let the design extend into the area where the Diaplane will be attached.This makes it more likely to come loose on the edges due to it sitting on an irregular surface.If you know the length the body is going to be trimmed to,the area where the Diaplane goes can be masked off before painting.The DBL. Sided Tape will stick better to an unpainted surface for best adhesion.

 Posted October 8th, 2010 09:05 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
Registered: Jun 2008


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Tip#63- When mounting a New Body on your car & the body has one tire hanging out more than the other one-even if the rear end/tire spacing is perfect & the distance from the rear axle to the front bumpers is also perfect,it usually means that the chassis is "parallelagramed" from a previous wreck.On a chassis like a "SPEC 15" w/ thin steel rails you MAY be able to twist it back into shape even if it won't stay that way due to 'memory' in the metal.On an aluminum chassis that's .060 + thick & around .150 width on the rails,it's going to be much harder.If you attempt it,a jig can be made by using a piece of wood w/ 2 big thick nails pounded in for leverage when you twist.Use a piece of graph paper w/ more than the simple 1/4" squares so you can try & get everything lined up like the rectangle it's supposed to be.Now the rear end may be off some when you put in bearings & some 'wallowing out' of the pillow blocks may be a compromise that's necessary to get everything lined up.Just remember that when you have another hard wreck in the same direction that bent the chassis before then the same thing will most likely happen again.Time for a New Ride???

 Posted November 17th, 2010 01:13 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip#64-In Open Racing when it comes time to rebuild the motor & the pinion needs to be removed,sometimes it's very difficult to get it off when it's been pinned.Sometimes you can't get it to move at all & the best bet is to quit wasting time & 'crunch' it w/ the backside of your Needlenose pliers.However if it comes partly out but won't budge the rest of the way you can reheat the pinion & quickly grab the exposed part of the pin w/ nail clippers & pull out the pin.

 Posted November 17th, 2010 02:04 PM   IP
Open7
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Posts: 130
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Use a gear puller. It will work everytime. With the new koford pinions that do not have the EDM slot there is much less of a chance to break the pinion before the wire. A lot less time consuming...

 Posted November 17th, 2010 02:52 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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I've tried using a gear puller even on pinions that I got the wire out of-for Shelby & myself- that wouldn't come off period.It wasn't worth messing up the gear puller & the pinion to continue to try using that method.

 Posted March 10th, 2011 08:58 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
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Tip#65-This one could have gone in John's section about painting. I got a half dozen Koford Peugeot bodies from Gary Puetz to paint for him & did them today. Parma has been pulling them for quite awhile now & even though some racers liked the thickness on the old ones better,the Parma ones are generally very good pulls. These latest ones are no exception but the flashing along the bottom edge is messed up now. This should be no problem when it's trimmed away but when you remove the side masking,you need to be very careful so the body there where it's wrinkled & thin doesn't tear off as the tape is being removed. I didn't have it happen this time but bodies like this(or one's you pretrim away the flashing & cut a sharp corner or slice into) have a tendency to tear & waste all your effort along w/ the body. When the body gets extremely thin at the bottom as on some GTP bodies,you can lay clear cellophane tape along the edge & the body won't wrinkle as you trim it. If you were going to put that tape on it as you were finishing the body,you already have it in place & save a step.

 Posted March 10th, 2011 09:10 PM   IP
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I HOPE IM IN THE RIGHT CLASS..WAITING FOR THE NEXT TIP [15].see ya in school. I will listen to ya teach..fl

 Posted March 10th, 2011 09:26 PM   IP
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I found it. 12345 pages Im felling in skool...thanks for the tips ..pa..later..

 Posted March 25th, 2011 04:22 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip #66- Some stuff I don't think much about now but it could make things easier when getting into painting your own bodies-or other peoples. Get a Vinyl Cutter. I have a Stika 12" which is more than I need but the Vinyl is cut in this size along w/ 24" commonly which helps w/ the price. I usually just get 24" & cut it on my paper cutter. You can get it from U.S. Cutters or Sign Warehouse among many others & many times locally.
Use ORACAL 651 for vinyl. It's very common & you can get a good price on it because of this once again. It's also probably the best stuff for what we're doing w/ Slot Car bodies. I'd recommend getting BLACK-it's cheap & easy to see the 'cut lines' after you run it through the machine w/ the white paper background underneath. Also get you another high contrast color like green,blue, or red(not so high contrast but it looks good). This will allow you to quickly see what's what if you mask w/ both colors on the same body. Stay away from any metallic colors- they're more expensive sometimes & may not work as good.
If you know you're going top use a design,names,numbers,etc., cut the vinyl in advance & let it sit a few days & the vinyl will draw back from where it was cut & make the cut outs easier to separate from the rest of the vinyl as you'll have some room to stick in an X-Acto w/o messing up an edge & it's easier to see what you're doing. If it didn't cut cleanly, you can see that also & trim it away. get some good transfer tape. If it's good it won't roll up on you after you use it,leave any residue, & you can use it over & over again until it gets furry. That's all for now- just some basic stuff to make painting go smoother.

 Posted April 13th, 2011 12:40 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip#67-Many integral guide chassis(built in guide holder) have made chassis building very easy so that a jig isn't needed. Basically you need to flatten the chassis & get out your heat resistant block & some calipers & dive in.
I recommend that you do the rear end first. This will make it much less likely that you solder the pin tubes on upside down before you notice your mistake. This will help keep the frustration to a minimum. How do I know???

 Posted April 13th, 2011 01:19 PM   IP
tnt2
Moderator - Slot Tech & Tips
Posts: 1872
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I have watched Beuf build a dozen chassis at the last 3 NATS with a Slate Block and 2 pieces of Strapping to hold the center to the Slate. Dremel off the rough burrs a little sanding on the Pillow Blocks. Measure to make sure the pillow blocks are square ream the holes in the pillow blocks so the axle sits level and is the correct height for you gears. A little flux and the solder of your choice, mine will be #8 Silver. A toothbrush and some Comet, a WD-40 and Glad Sandwich Bag and I have a new Chassis ready to go, just add a Red Fox Guide, Jet Leadwire, GRW BB, Tire, Gear and Axle of your choice.
Then call PA, Bobby or John to build a body, add 4 pins and a little Bulletproofing and you are ready to go Racing.


 Posted April 13th, 2011 01:31 PM   IP
Mr.bb
Moderator - River Oaks Motor Speedway
Posts: 1422
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tnt2 wrote:
A toothbrush and some Comet, a WD-40 and Glad Sandwich Bag and I have a new Chassis ready to go, just add a Red Fox Guide, Jet Leadwire, GRW BB, Tire, Gear and Axle of your choice.
Then call PA, Bobby or John to build a body, add 4 pins and a little Bulletproofing and you are ready to go Racing.




Missing something?

The Snake Charmer!

 Posted April 13th, 2011 01:40 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
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Pine wood derby racing.

 Posted April 13th, 2011 03:54 PM   IP
tnt2
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Yeah they will have to talk to you about Horsepower, cause I don't have any and it was evident in Houston.

 Posted April 13th, 2011 07:44 PM   IP
Luther
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Mr.bb wrote:


Missing something?


perfect for roller boxstock.

it's not the one with the fastest car, it's who refuses to lose...R.E.

 Posted April 13th, 2011 10:49 PM   IP
Dave G 5150
Moderator - Pampa VFW Slot Car Speedway
Posts: 348
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i have built a few around here with great results... while i would not expect my cars to be as precise as some of yours, they work rather well...
and i feel a sense of pride seeing something i built sell and fly around the track...
all this from toy cars... whoodathunkit??? LOL!!!

...Dave

David Grant

I am a bomb technician; if you see me running, please try to keep up!

ATOMIK PUNK race cars (built by David Grant)

 Posted September 13th, 2011 07:38 PM   IP
WildBill
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Posts: 476
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Can this be pinned up from under thiis main thread?

B.S. Racing

Team King
Accepting Sponsor offers.




 Posted September 13th, 2011 07:40 PM   IP
Mr.bb
Moderator - River Oaks Motor Speedway
Posts: 1422
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WildBill wrote:
Can this be pinned up from under thiis main thread?



Done

The Snake Charmer!

 Posted October 7th, 2011 01:43 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip #68- This is one that most folks will probably pass on but as I've driven myself to an Emergency Room before so I think it might help someone- especially Body Painters.
For masking, a SHARP #11 X-acto blade is a must to keep from applying too much pressure when cutting out window masks or other trimming directly on a body. A dull blade will be more likely to cause a slice in the body.
This means much more opportunities to cut your finger however. To limit the damage, I started flattening about two thirds of the cutting area since the tip is the only part used in most cases for us racers. I hope the pictures below will show what I'm talking about.



This is a simple way to keep yourself from some pain & cost as you may still get cut but it will won't be so bad.

 Posted January 26th, 2012 03:54 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
Posts: 4478
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Tip #69- Be sure & rough up & tin the Leadwire Retainer before you put it on. You should tin the chassis also including roughing it up unless it's an Aluminum Chassis. If you're using a prebuilt Koford Box Stock Chassis, be sure & take it off & start over.

 Posted January 26th, 2012 06:48 PM   IP
pawatson
Moderator - Slot Cars of Katy
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Tip #70-If you paint your own bodies & use Lacquer Paint, eventually you will end up w/ build-up around the threads of the bottle. Instead of soaking the bottle w/ thinner or scraping it off w/ a knife, you can buff it off w/ a bench grinder w/ a wire wheel. It only takes seconds & makes bottles last indefinitely.

 Posted February 1st, 2012 05:24 PM   IP
Biff
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Tip for the day from a new guy. Grind the tip down of your .050" wrench when trying to install the spur and wheel grub screws. Don't ask me how I just spent the last hour wondering and learned this.

It's in the freezer now because I don't want to overheat it and lose the hardness. And always use a quality Allen wrench that's precision ground and hardened coming from the like's of Hudy, JR and Axial.

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